A fadista’s guide to Lisbon’s best live fado performances
Fado singer Carminho wowed audiences with her performance in Poor Things. Here’s where she catches fado in Lisbon, from the iconic Mesa de Frades to insider hangout Tasca da Bela.
Lisbon captivates with its multitude of sensory delights, whether it’s the zesty fragrance of ginger lilies in one of the city’s many gardens, the luscious sweetness of pasteis de nata custard tarts or the stunning brilliance of lavender-hued jacaranda blooms in a town square. Set beside the cerulean waters of the Tagus River, Lisbon’s seven-hilled landscape beckons to be explored on foot, with discoveries around every corner.
The very soul of Lisbon and its citizens is captured in fado. This musical genre – often described as haunting or mournful – reflects the bittersweet emotions of everyday life. But fado doesn’t just refer to a genre; it also refers to songs that traditionally revolve around themes like love and pain. No wonder, considering fado was born in Lisbon’s poor and marginalised neighbourhoods; once home to sailors and prostitutes. The soul-stirring refrain can be heard and experienced in fado houses all over the country, where understanding Portuguese isn’t a requirement for soaking up the music’s emotion.
Fado has been Portugal’s constant soundtrack since the 19th Century but is currently having a moment in the global spotlight, featured in the Oscar award-winning film Poor Things. Lisbon-native Carminho, a renowned fadista (fado singer) and composer, has a captivating cameo role where she sings and plays the traditional 12-string Portuguese guitar while the lead character, Bella (played by Emma Stone) listens, overwhelmed with feeling.
